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pp.293, “Never before have so many North Americans cared so much about food. But much of our attention to it tends towards grim calculation (what protein is best? how much?); social preening (“I can always score the last reservation at xxxxx”); or graphic machismo (“watch me eat this now”). Gopnik shows we are not the first food fetishists but we are losing sight of a timeless truth, “the table comes first”: what goes on around the table matters as much to life as what we put on the table: families come together (or break apart) over the table, conversations across the simplest or grandest board can change the world, pain and romance unfold around it–all this is more essential to our lives than the provenance of any zucchini or the road it travelled to reach us. Whatever dilemmas we may face as omnivores, how not what we eat ultimately defines our society.”